Effort Signalling: Why Luxury Fashion is Rejecting AI in Favor of Human Craftsmanship

The sound of a pencil scratching on paper is making a comeback in luxury fashion. Prada's 2026 holiday campaign features hand-drawn animation created by veteran Disney animator John Pomeroy, whose work on The Land Before Time and Thumbelina brings fantastical characters to life alongside actors Maya Hawke, Sadie Sink, and Kelvin Harrison Jr. Shot by Glen Luchford, the campaign emphasizes the "human touch" over digital perfection.

This shift is part of a growing trend known as "effort signalling" or "effort maxxing," where luxury brands deliberately showcase the time, skill, and labor involved in their creations to signal authenticity. In an era of AI-generated "slop," the finesse of a human hand has become a key differentiator. Loewe, for its 180th anniversary, commissioned illustrator Joanna Blemont and a team of artists to produce 2,000 watercolor paintings for an animated film. The Spanish house has also collaborated with Louis Wain and Tim Burton's The Nightmare Before Christmas to highlight the value of the creative process.

Other luxury houses are following suit. Hermès has partnered with French artist Linda Merad for its "Venture Beyond" theme, using lithography to embrace intentional imperfections. The maison also worked with woodworker Thibaut Malet to create a miniature version of its Paris flagship, explicitly positioning traditional know-how as a counterpoint to AI. Similarly, Chanel's creative director Matthieu Blazy used illustrator Karlotta Freier for a hand-drawn teaser for the autumn/winter 2026 haute couture show, inspired by Gabrielle Chanel's library. Even the beauty sector has joined in, with Oribe collaborating with mosaic artist Mathilde Herrero for its 2026 holiday collection.

However, not all brands have navigated this transition smoothly. Valentino and Gucci have both faced criticism for using AI-generated imagery in their promotions, sparking debates about the role of technology in a business built on craftsmanship. Most recently, Dior's "Christian Dior's Night of Colour" campaign, created with Sylvain Chomet, has come under scrutiny as viewers flag AI-like inconsistencies in the imagery, leading to accusations of dishonesty regarding the production process.

The tension arises from a complex relationship between consumers and luxury goods. While innovation is accepted, there is a growing fear that AI is replacing human jobs and that brands are maintaining luxury prices while reducing investment in human creativity. By pulling back the curtain on their workshops and production techniques, brands are attempting to re-establish trust and prove that human skill remains the heart of luxury.